For two years during the conflict in Gaza, all public celebrations for Christmas were called off within the city of Bethlehem located in the West Bank. This city is where the faithful hold Jesus was born.
But, after the recent ceasefire, this sacred city determined that this year celebrations would make a comeback, as represented by the lighting of its traditional, giant Christmas tree in front of the ancient Church of the Nativity.
"We have endured a bad two years of silence; no Christmas, no jobs, no work," states the city's mayor Maher Canawati. "Our community survives from tourism and the tourist trade had fallen to zero."
The mayor accepts that the decision to restart festivities was not without debate, given the ongoing hardship within Gaza – which affects members of the tiny Christian community, many of whom have family ties to Bethlehem.
"Certain voices argue it's not appropriate and others say it's appropriate," Mr Canawati explains. "But deep inside my heart, I felt this constituted the right thing to do since Christmas should never be halted or abandoned. This is a beacon of hope for us."
Locals – from both Christian and Muslim faiths – pose for selfies before the tree hung with red and gold baubles in Manger Square. They are accompanied by a small number of international visitors.
Brightly coloured lights now adorn city streets with signs advertising holiday markets and festive events for children.
"We're very happy to have the tree, first thing, and to see foreigners to Bethlehem and to be able to celebrate Christmas in its true spirit," comments local jewellery designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This is where everything began, so this is where we can convey a message to the world of what really Christmas represents. And this year, if the season is calm, then I hope it will deliver a nice message for the entire world."
Nearby towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to light Christmas trees in the coming days. Hotels – which have remained largely empty for two years – are seeing a rise of bookings from Arab citizens of Israel along with some foreign visitors.
A visitor from Russia, Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to this region. "In my view everyone needs to come at least once in their life," she states.
"I hope a lot of people will return soon because it's sad without many tourists. The only thing that's good is that you don't have long lines – you can come and experience more. On my prior visit you had to wait in line for a few hours at least."
For now, the gift shops scattered throughout Bethlehem have little business, and near the cream-coloured walls of the Nativity Church, which originate from the 4th century, tour guides are mostly unoccupied. Before the Gaza war, it was typically packed with people.
"This is a tourist city; absent visitors there is no life," laments a guide named Hamza. "We hope to see individuals coming back as in the past: from Europe, the Middle Eastern region, the Americas, Latin America and all over. We begin with lighting the tree, and then we will wait."
In the past two years, joblessness has soared in Bethlehem. Following the deadly attacks led by Hamas in southern Israel during October 2023 that sparked the conflict, tens of thousands of Palestinian labourers from the West Bank have been prevented from entering Israel and Israeli settlements for work.
Meanwhile, government employees have been paid just a portion of their wages from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers areas within the West Bank. The PA depends on tax income gathered by Israel, which it is withholding – to the tune of 1.76 billion dollars, according to the UN's trade and development agency.
Israel says it is holding these funds due to the fact that the PA makes payments to Palestinian prisoners that encourage attacks on Israelis. The PA – which has been under international pressure to enact reforms – claims it has lately modified its social welfare system.
The bleak economic situation means that for many Palestinian Christians, even though there are currently public events in addition to religious services, it will constitute a subdued holiday season.
On the periphery of Manger Square, some patrons wait to purchase sizzling balls of falafel from several shops.
"We are getting ready for Christmas after one of our hardest periods as Palestinians and as Christians," states one restaurant owner, who runs Afteem, a decades-old family-run eatery which has seen its income plummet. He notes lately numerous families could not even purchase falafel – a cheap, traditional food.
"The faithful will attempt to celebrate but according to their circumstances," Mr Salameh expects. "An individual wishing to bring their children to a festive event or the theatre or whatever, he doesn't have the money to spend for this celebration."
In the cave-like grotto beneath the Nativity Church, a local woman follows a tour group from India, stooping down near a silver star which marks the location where tradition states Jesus was born and lighting a candle nearby.
Amid ongoing high tensions throughout the area, Bethlehem residents say they are praying for peace – and wishing for tourists to come back to the place which is thought to be where Christmas started.
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